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Tools for the Basic Autobody Shop [by: Halloweenking]
Hotrodders Bulletin Board: Knowledge Base: Body-Exterior: Articles

So, you're starting out in the body repair field at home and you want to stock up on the tools needed. Well, here is a list of the tools and equipment your basic shop should have. Air tools are listed for ease of use. They are not needed. Hand tools, however, are.

• air compressor -- preferably 5 horsepower, 60 gallon capacity or larger
  
  
• spray gun -- preferably HVLP (high volume low pressure)
  
  
• pneumatic orbital sander -- preferably a DA (dual action)
  
  
• air file or basic body file
  
  
• very coarse filler file, or what is referred to as a "cheese grater"
  
  
• a selection of hammers including:
  1. brass hammer
  2. rubber hammer
  3. polyurethane hammer
  4. dead blow hammer
  5. ball peen hammer
  6. shrinking hammer
  7. pick hammer
  8. body hammer
  9. slide hammer
  10. finishing hammer
  
  
  
• a set of dollies
  
  
• a set of body spoons
  
  
• a vise and vise caps
  
  
• a set of graduating sizes of:
  1. vise grip c-clamps
  2. sheet metal clamps
  3. regular vise clamps
  
  
  
• a set of sanding blocks
  
  
• suction cup

The capacity of the air compressor denotes the length of time you can use your pneumatic tools before the air compressor has to refill itself. The larger the capacity, the longer you can use your pneumatic tools without stopping to let your compressor catch up.

A spray gun is readily used and very important to the quality of your paint's finish.

Orbital sanders are one of the most used tools in a body shop. They will most likely be the most used in your garage during body repairs. They can be used from the beginning of the process to the end with experience.

Air files or body files are used for flat panels to cut down or smooth filler. Very useful tool.

The coarse filler file or "cheese grater" is used to cut down the excess filler before the use of disposable sand papers, cutting down cost and saving sand paper.

1. The brass hammer will make heavy blows without marring the metal.
   
   
2. The rubber hammer is used as a bumping hammer to gently bump out small dents in painted sheet metal. It also can be used with a suction cup. While pulling the suction cup, you can use the rubber mallet to tap the high spot around the dent. This will cause a popping sound as the high spots drop and the dent pops out back into shape.
   
   
3. Polyurethane hammers are used to make soft or light blows where you could damage surrounding material with a regular hammer.
   
   
4. Dead blow hammers contain lead shot like that used in metal forming "bean bags". This lead shot prevents the hammer from bouncing back after the initial blow.
   
   
5. The ball peen hammer is a general use hammer. It has a flat end for basic striking and a round end for shaping metal or rivet heads etc.
   
   
6. Shrinking hammers are used for "shrinking" sheet metal that has been stretched due to a dent or ding nearby or excessive hammering. They are distinctive, with a flat serrated or crosshatched head.
   
   
7. Pick hammers are also distinctive. They have a long, sharply pointed head. They are used to pound out small dents from the inside or shrink from the outside. They also have a flat head on the other side for smoothing, and to work with dollies.
   
   
8. Body hammers are general also. The have a flat head on one side and a torpedo-like shape on the other.
   
   
9. Slide hammers are distinctive as well. They are long rods with a sliding weight and a multi-purpose point. This tool is used to pull large dents. The tool is connected to the sheet metal with a body screw or welded pin, and as you slide the weight forward and aft, you generate a pulling force.
   
   
10. A finishing hammer is used to finish the metal to the final contour. These hammers have a smaller head than the body hammer and are contoured to focus the striking force.
    
    
11. Dollies are portable forming anvils used to shape the metal as a backing plate for the hammer of choice or a forming anvil.
    
    
12. Spoons are a lengthened version of a dolly for hard to reach situations. They can also be used as hammers, and can be custom made.
    
    
13. A vise is used to hold pieces securely. Vise caps are soft covers for the vise jaws so you don't mar the piece.

Advanced shops for metal forming are in need of more tools. They are as follows:

• stick, MIG or TIG welders
  
  
• gas torch
  
  
• English wheel
  
  
• bead roller
  
  
• a wide selection of forming hammers
  
  
• a leather forming bag or "bean bag"
  
  
• a selection of metal files or rasps
  
  
• reciprocating saw (Sawzall), pneumatic body saw, and plasma cutter

Welders are an absolute must for the serious body man and woman and metal former. MIG's are the usual choice for just body men and women. They are easy to use and easy to learn for use on bodywork. TIG welders are usually used by the metal formers and fabrication professionals, they are also easy to learn, but a bit harder than MIG. TIG welding is cleaner and stronger than other types of welding. TIG welding is usually used on custom exhaust and intakes. TIG welding does not contain any pin holes like found in MIG welding, so it's a better choice for fabrication projects under pressure or ones that will later be chrome plated.

A gas torch is used for annealing the material before forming. The annealing process is one that spreads the particles of the metal apart for easier forming.

An English wheel is an old tool. It was used in the beginning of metal forming. The English wheel itself is usually a giant shaped steel C with an 8-inch solid billet wheel anvil mounted at the top of the C. At the bottom of the C you have your removable anvils of various degree crowns. These anvils are usually in 5-degree intervals. These bottom wheel anvils are removable as well as mounted on a shaft that can be moved up and down to apply pressure to the sheet metal being worked. This tool is used for basic forming and final smoothing and shaping.

A bead roller has many uses. It will put a shape into sheet metal like beading, by pinching the sheet metal between two small anvils.

Forming hammers are made from lead, wood or polyurethane. The wood or polyurethane hammers are usually teardrop shaped and are used with the "bean bag" prior to the English wheel. Lead hammers are used to strike the metal with a strong blow but due to the soft nature of the hammer will not mar or stretch the metal.

A "bean bag" is usually a double or triple layer leather bag filled with sand or steel shot to use as a solid but soft backing for hammer forming. They can be a variety of sizes and shapes.

Metal files and rasps are used to smooth and shape the final product before priming and painting. The use of files will smooth the metal so that smoothing fillers are unneeded or kept to a minimum.

A saw is still a good idea to have because plasma cutters have the tendancy to spit back in your face when cutting double layer steel.

In a fabricating shop there are many custom fabricated anvils and tools that can't be bought. Remember -- anything can be used to form a piece of metal. Be creative, make things, it's perfectly natural.