No reason that combo won't make 400hp and gobs of mid-range torque.

Now if you would have said 210cc heads, single plane manifold, and 800 carb, you'd have the potential for a lot more horsepower, but at the sacrifice of low-mid range torque and probably drive-ability.

Got more cam specs?

Cement?

 

Howard part #cl-113215 1300 to 5500 rpm intake @.50 217,exhaust @.50 225, 1.5 rocker, hydraulic roller
cementing block is filled to bottom of freeze plugs to stabilize bottom of cylinders

 

Seems way overkill for a 400 HP 383. Cemented block, forged rotating assembly, H beams,AFR cnc'd heads? It's your build to do as you wish & it will leave some growing room for down the road if you wanted.What duty & vehicle are you building this for?
A set of Profiler heads would save you about $400 & still easily go way beyond your 400 HP goal.The Skip White stroker kits run about $1000, compared to approx $1500 for the fully forged kit.It has Wiseco forged pistons, Scat 9000 crank, Scat I beams,& comes fully balanced.

 

You realize that the rated rpm range for that cam is based off the most common size SBC, a 350 cube engine, and that use in a 383 will drop it 300-400 rpm??
So that cam will basically be 1000-5100 rpm in your 383.

I'd go 1.6 and 1.5 split ratio rocker set, use the 1.6 on the intake side. The CNC'd AFR's only need about a 4°-5° split in duration, the 1.6 on the intake will help that cam choice act closer to that.

The carb is a bit small even for a torque 383, I'd go to at least a 750 if you haven't already bought the 670....The Avengers are crap by the way, have a really lean metering calibration out of the box and a pain to correct, I hope that is not what the 670 is. A QuickFuel Slayer 750 is a hot tip(hint hint).

If that 400-ish plus HP is all you are looking for, the forged crank and H-beam rods are extreme overkill, the cast 9000 crank and 3/8" capscrew I-beam rod will be plenty.

 

FWIW, the stock crank will take 400HP without an issue.

What everyone is telling you is that your goals are BEYOND achieveable and you could save a buck or increase your goals. Your money, your decision.

 

Ah, a retrofit roller. I think 217/225 is just right for a high torque 383. Based on 383s I've built and worked on, your stated engine configuration should make great mid-range power and still rev to 5500 or above.

IMO, A 670 CFM carb will easily meet the engine's CFM requirements. In fact, I doubt the secondaries would ever fully open. (Do the math and use .85 or .90 as the VE.) I highly recommend the new aluminum 670 S/A with 4 corner idle. I know for a fact that an old school #0-80783 650 Holley will let a 383 rev to nearly 6000 RPM, assuming the rest of the engine is up for it.

I'm not familiar with the intake manifold you mention, but it should be a high rise dual plane, like the Performer RPM or Weiand Race Warrior (formerly "Stealth"). Just don't use a low rise like a Performer EPS on a 383. According to a Holley engineer I've exchanged e-mails with, the high rises above work just as well as at low RPMs on a 383-406, but make a big difference above 3500 RPM or so. He said he would even use one on a mild 355.

Also, it's hard to beat a SCAT balanced assembly using their 9000 series cast crank. profiled rods ( for cam clearance) with 7/16" cap screws, and pretty much your choice of pistons. I really like the D-dished K-B hypereutectic.

 

Joker thanks your right I'm right on target with room to grow, as for rotating assm. my builder got stiffed on it so I got it for less than I could have bought a cast assm. it's supposed to be balanced to within 2 grams he's going to balance it to within 1/2 gram as for heads I've looked at all of them like the afr's
total cost for machine and assm. 2400.00 this is just cost of block, machining, rotating assm.

 

Thank I'll definitely talk to my builder about rocker arm ratios, been using him for over 15 years and he's always seams to point me in right direction

 

It appears to me that you want a bulletproof build and there's nothing wrong with that. How would I do it?
Icon IC9961 pistons, forged, 10cc crown, 1.125" compression height.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-ic9961-030
Scat 2-ICR6000 rods (clearanced for cam)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-26000
Scat 9-350-3750-6000 crank
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-935056
Stack equals 9.000", so cut block decks to a new block deck height of 9.000" for a zero deck build.
Profiler 23 degree 185cc aluminum heads with 7/16" rocker studs, hydraulic roller springs and 70cc combustion chambers.
....Makes 9.85:1 Static Compression Ratio and the smaller runners will help to support low-rpm torque.
https://www.profilerperformance.com/176-sbc-23-degree-heads.html
Use Fel-Pro 1003 head gaskets for a squish/quench of 0.041".
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1003
Edelbrock 7104 Performer RPM Q-Jet intake manifold.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7104
750 or 800 CFM Rochester Quadrajet as built by Cliff Ruggles, especially for your application.
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/
Howards CL110885-10 hydraulic roller retro-fit cam and roller lifters kit. Makes 8.51:1 Dynamic Compression Ratio at 9.85:1 SCR. Install straight up on the timing card numbers, do not advance or retard the camshaft.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl110885-10
Use Scorpion 1001-1, 1.5:1 roller rockers for use on 7/16" studs
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1001-1
Top the carb with a 14" x 4" air filter system so the motor can breathe.
Use 1 3/4" primary tube diameter full-length headers with minimum 3/8" flange thickness. Thinner flanges will curl up from the heat of operation and spit out the exhaust gaskets. Install an H or X pipe immediately after the collectors. Run pipes and mufflers of your choice to the REAR of the vehicle. Nothing sounds quite so mickey mouse as pipes that terminate under the vehicle and drone (reverberate) on the underside sheet metal.

Use a 10", 2500 stall converter such as this Boss Hogg unit for a TH400 trans.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-46732/overview/
Or this one for a TH350....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-47732/overview/

I'd run 27" tires and a 3.73 rear gear.

.

 

I like Richards combo. I would use a Holley 750 double pumper over the Q-jet.(only difference)

 

I can't agree with the Boss Hogg converter tho'...they are know to not be the best, and the description flat-out says that the fins are NOT furnace brazed in place. That is a pretty critical construction feature you'll find is always used in good converters.....the cheap ones try to do without it because of the cost but it is false economy.

I used one of those stinkers years ago, and blew it up in just 6 weeks....
they are bottom of the barrel, even worse than Fairbanks, B&M, and TCI's off-the-shelf stuff.

 

I don't understand the big carb recommendations, especially a DP. To me the "stump puller" he wants implies massive torque in the 1500-4500 RPM range where the engine will spend 99% of its time, not some peak HP number at 5800 RPM that might need 750 CFM to feed. I mean we're not talking 100% VE here. The Q-Jet, of course, is a different story due to smaller primaries for great throttle response. They seem to work well on just about any size engine w/o any bad manners while trying to drive on the street.

As for the DP, even Holley says they are meant for light cars with manual transmissions and low axle ratios. Do we even know what kind of vehicle, trans, and gearing he has?

To the OP -- I suggest calling SCAT and getting a P/N for the kit you decide on. Then order from them, Summit Racing, Jeg's, or a local shop you trust. I have found the vendor recommended in a post above usually sells sub-standard imported parts. And even though they sell SCAT, I wouldn't trust them to not cut corners somewhere. But that's just my opinion and I haven't dealt with them in over a year.

Finally, an engine powerband is only so wide. Anytime you make more HP at high RPM, you give up TQ (as well as manners and throttle response) at lower RPMs. Kind of like a see-saw that goes up on one end and comes down on the other. If your vehicle has seriously low gearing and spends a lot of time at 5500 RPM, let me know and I'll get off my soapbox.

 

Per the OP's post, #8, he already got a good deal on the rotating assembly from a local shop having it left when a previous customer flaked on it...

The 750 Holley I'd use is a vacuum secondary....can't be too big that way and it is there for future growth...I see you point though on the torque.

 

55 327,
Although Skip White does sell some cheaper offshore stuff, the 383 kits he offers are a heck of deal & about the best deal you will find on a kit of this type.It includes all name brand parts & is complete, including balancer, flexplate,& balanced.You will be hard pressed to find any serious complaints on this kit.It includes Scat crank & 6" rods.Wiseco forged pistons in flat top, or, D cup with a taller pin hgt.King bearings.Mahle rings.All for just under $1000.
Since the OP already has his rotating assembly, it's a moot point, but, just to clear up any confusion.

 

I came to this forum for other people's thoughts and input, and so far you all have been great,
now the engine is going into a 1987 chevy 1/2ton short wheel base 4x4 turning a 373 gear with 31 inch tires,factory 350 tranny and transfer which may or may not be an issue, we'll cross that bridge when we get there, now as for the engine I'm building for it is the forged assembly and cemented block over kill in some people's eyes yes, in mine no, in my opinion if i have a good solid platform to begin with than later on if i decide to put the engine in a lighter vehicle with lower gearing and spin it up over 6 or 7 ks I'm looking at top end changes without having to put money back into the lower end. Would I have gone this route if I hadn't gotten a good deal on a block and assembly, probably
techinspetor your build suggestions are all most as spot on with mine it seems you and I are going around the same stump just in different directions. with the assembly I have 16 cc d-dish and 65cc heads and zero deck I'm at 9.8 I am however tighten my quiche up just a little 0.38, now as for stall converters I'm leaning towards stay ith very little and keeping the cam very streetable for now my 16 year old granddaughter loves driving this truck when she's here, she says it wimpy when it takes off though. So hopefully next time she drives it maybe it wont be so wimpy, if it were only gonna be myself driving it I'd say cam it up carb it up intake it up,spin it up and make ponies.
Sorry for such a long post but now you know where I'm going so carb and intake suggestions

 

The wimpy take off is a function of your converter, gears and tire size. The right converter will resolve all of that issue IMO. With that said, another 150-200hp also helps as long as it's a reasonable torque and HP band.

3.73, and 31"+ tires will like a 3000 stall at a minimum.

 

How will your engine cool with half the jackets filled with cement? I am thinking it won't cool as well as an engine that circulates more water.

 

I've done this many times, it has proven to be a non-issue, and if you check around the web you'll find other engine guys that will tell you the same.

Pretty much 90% of your heat is in the top 1-1/2" of piston travel, after that filled or unfilled they cool the same.

 

You are correct 64, and as I stated I'll cross that bridge when we get there,
oldtech cementing the block is going to decrease the amount of water the block will hold but not by half by a long shot, yes less water in the block means it's gonna get hotter faster and your thermistat is open more often thus taxing the cooling system, so to off set this you use bigger radiator with better heat displacement features, the people that really liked the 400 for it low end torque figured this out after gm blunder with its overheating problem.